Zambia
On the trail of the leopards
We could hardly wait to fulfill our dream of traveling to Zambia. After all, Zambia is considered a hidden gem for nature lovers and wildlife photographers. And so our journey began on August 15, 2025.
15. & 16.08.25 Journey to Zambia & Arrival Mfuwe – Flatdogs Camp
The moment had finally arrived: after a rather exhausting 25-hour journey, we reached our long-awaited destination — South Luangwa National Park in Zambia — on the evening of August 16, 2025. We settled into our wonderful tented camp which would be our home for the next ten nights.
17.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
Our first day began with an incredible early morning game drive at sunrise. We were treated to sightings of hippos, a family of giraffes with calves, elephants, hyenas, zebras, various antelope species, monkeys and birds. Our dream of seeing a leopard was not only fulfilled but exceeded — we were lucky enough to observe a mother leopard named Lucie and her two young males feeding, playing, grooming and sharpening their claws. What a fantastic way to start the trip.
After a relaxed midday break in and around our tent — including a visit from a lone bull elephant in the camp — we headed out for our first evening game drive. Once again, we saw Lucie and her two sons — this time napping in the shade of the riverbed. Alongside giraffes, zebras, elephants, hippos, antelope, monkeys and birds we were also rewarded with a sighting of four subadult lions and one lioness most of whom were resting. Just after a stunning sunset and our first sundowner three buffalo crossed our path.
During the night drive under a breathtaking African starry sky we spotted a lioness, a hyena, an African civet and two genets. After a delicious dinner back at camp we fell into bed — exhausted but deeply happy.
18.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
During our morning drive the following day we marveled at the park’s incredible flora and fauna. We watched elephants with a calf, a herd of zebras with young ones, kudus and other antelope, storks, kingfishers, bee-eaters, a marabou stork, hippos and two hyenas. South Luangwa National Park continued to impress us with its rich variety of landscapes and ecosystems.
During the midday break we witnessed a truly memorable encounter with a large bull elephant. First he drank at the riverbank then crossed the river directly in front of our tent and began feeding right outside bringing us face to face with him at our tent entrance.
That evening we had the privilege of a private game drive and headed to the northern part of the park. The landscape changed dramatically and we enjoyed the breeze and golden light of the African afternoon. We could hardly believe our luck when we came across a leopard mother resting in a tree after feeding. The remains of an impala kill still hung from a branch beside her. Shortly afterward we spotted her roughly four-month-old cub in a nearby tree and watched it until nightfall.
Suddenly a leopard burst from behind the thicket chasing one of three hyenas gathered beneath the kill. It turned out to be a male and he claimed what was left of the carcass — an incredible sighting to end the day.
19.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
During this morning’s drive we enjoyed sightings of hyenas a young male lion resting on the sandbank and elephants bathing in dust backlit by the morning sun. We spotted various bird species including ground hornbills, bee-eaters, kingfishers, eagles as well as turtles, Nile crocodiles and hippos. At a dried-up waterhole we also watched elephants digging for water and drinking from the hidden springs.
During the midday break our path to the tent was initially blocked by elephants but afterwards we visited the lodge’s photo hide where we watched elephants enjoying a mud bath at the waterhole.
On today’s evening drive we first saw a few buffalo in a gully and then came across a pride of lions with a total of 14 individuals roaming the area. We were then treated to a phenomenal sighting of a leopardess with her roughly three to four month old cub as they played, groomed and tumbled together in the golden light of the setting sun. Eventually the mother set off on her nightly hunt and the cub disappeared into the thicket.
With a stunning sunset and a sundowner we soaked up the evening mood of Africa and celebrated this amazing sighting. During the following night drive we saw an African civet, a genet, bee-eaters lined up on a branch and a chameleon caught in the spotlight. The day ended with a very entertaining dinner shared with an Australian couple who had joined us in the safari vehicle.
20.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
During this morning’s drive we observed various settings of the African landscape and wildlife with giraffes, antelope, zebras, elephants as well as a large herd of buffalo heading to a water hole while we accompanied the animals during our morning tea. Shortly before the end of the drive we spotted a subadult male leopard behind a bush in the shade and were able to follow him for a while on his journey through the landscape — lucky us.
During today’s evening drive we headed to a different area further south and crossed the river on a type of boat, drove over sandbanks in the riverbed and observed baboons, warthogs, kudus, giraffes and elephants. During the sundowner we had a panoramic view of the entire valley and an impressive sunset on the horizon. The night safari was rather quiet — for example we saw an elephant shrew.
21.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
This morning we drove about 1.5 hours north in the park to look for wild dogs. We were very lucky to discover the pack with seven adult animals and at least seven pups in the thicket near their den and were very happy about it. On the way back we observed hippos, elephants, giraffes, zebras, antelopes, birds and monkey species — a really great morning.
During the evening drive we followed fantastic scenes of monkeys, antelopes, zebras and giraffes. In addition we had a sighting of two lions and a lioness one of which was a mating couple that was already exhausted from the last few days. We watched the sunset at the Luangwa River and observed the hippos as they gradually came out of the water to search for food and eat on land at night. We again saw a bush cat a bushy tailed mongoose and some elephant shrews.
22.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
Right at the start of this morning’s drive after we first entered the park our guide Confidence spotted one of Lucie’s male juveniles curled up on the ground. He began grooming himself, playing with elephant dung, frolicking, sneaking up and climbing a tree right next to our car. Here he started focusing on us and probably wanted to jump onto our roof but we quickly drove to the side and had to laugh about the experience.
In the evening we drove again across the Luangwa River with a kind of bridge system far to the south to enjoy an impressive sighting of four lions feeding on a dead hippo in the Luangwa River with Nile crocodiles in the background which had already fed their fill earlier. The night drive was rather quiet we saw three bush cats, elephant shrews and hippos.
23.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
This morning’s drive was initially very calm in the center of the park with birdwatching so we continued driving further south. We found crowned cranes and watched them drinking at the river — a real highlight. We also spotted a leopardess resting in the shade on a plain. We saw many antelopes, monkeys, zebras, giraffes, hippos and kudus as well as the first bushbuck.
During today’s evening drive we headed north to look for animals. At first the drive until the sundowner was rather quiet with beautiful scenery, sightings of antelopes, elephants, zebras and monkeys. After the sundowner the sun had already set when our guide spotted a male leopard patrolling his territory. He led us to a leopardess in a tree with a kill and her cub on the ground while the leopard jumped into the tree to take over the dead baboon and started ripping the fur. What a crazy sighting of a leopard family. On the way we were also able to observe an African civet cat in the tall grass. A successful day ended with conversations with lovely people at dinner.
24.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
Today’s full day drive held many surprises for us. We encountered the entire wild dog pack with eleven adult animals near their den after they had hunted and played with the pups while the pups stayed in their den afterward. The adults rested and slept through the day in the shade until we returned to them in the evening. We drove far north in the park where we finally came across our main target of the day — a herd of wildebeests and an eland antelope. The landscape was very dry lined with yellow grasses and mopane trees quite different from the area near the water source — the Luangwa River. After a lunch break with brunch in a dried up riverbed we observed surreal scenes of elephants in the river as well as the ebony forests, giraffes and zebras. We returned once more to the wild dogs which slowly became more active but unfortunately had to start the long journey back in time. On the way we stopped at a hippo beach and spotted a leopardess lying on a cliff edge in the evening light. With many impressions we returned to camp after sunset and enjoyed a delicious dinner.
25.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark
Since today was our second to last day we booked private drives with our guide Confidence for the remaining time. At first everything was calm as we were the first to enter the park. Shortly after we spotted two hyenas meeting each other, greeting and then lying down. Suddenly we heard noises, the hyenas jumped up and started running toward the source of the sound as did an elephant which trumpeted loudly. We drove in that direction and discovered a male leopard, Lucie the female leopard and one of her cubs. All were very active as the male seemed to be pursuing Lucie to mate but Lucie tried to escape him followed by her cub. We followed them as they made their way through the thicket until Lucie climbed a tall tree to escape. After waiting for a while under the tree it became too hectic for the male because of warning calls from antelopes and he left the scene. We found Lucie again in a clearing and her cub in the dense bush. Afterwards we stopped for our morning tea at the riverbank with a view of hippos and crocodiles. As we continued driving we discovered a crowned eagle nest as well as a pride of lions feeding on a dead buffalo which they had killed in the morning.
Right at the start of the afternoon drive a leopardess ran across the road in front of us using the engine noise to sneak up on impalas but there was no hunt. The leopardess seemed injured on her right front leg and was already very emaciated with dull fur. We checked on the lions again which were still feeding on the buffalo. We found Lucie’s cub hidden in the thicket once more before heading north. There we observed running giraffes, antelopes and a herd of about 80 elephants crossing the river during the sundowner. As night fell we drove towards the 800 to 1000 year old baobab tree to take a photo of the African starry sky. Back at camp we were surprised with a table prepared for us with flowers and candlelight. We enjoyed our last evening with delicious food. Lions roamed the camp that night and killed a bushbuck.
26.08.25 South Luangwa Nationalpark & Departure
The next morning we set out on our last safari drive which was rather calm but we enjoyed every minute! Right after crossing the bridge at the park entrance we came across the same pride of lions from the day before who were rolling around or sleeping with full bellies. We saw giraffes, elephants, antelopes, warthogs, monkeys, birds, a hyena and for farewell one of Lucie’s cubs sleeping hidden. With heavy hearts we said goodbye to our guide Confidence who had become a friend as well as the camp staff and owners.
Conclusion
In summary we can truly look back on a total of 22 leopard sightings and 27 lion sightings during this trip. We want to sincerely thank the Flatdogs Camp team who made this journey and these experiences possible. We will carry them forever in our hearts and hope to return one day.